Had to machine a big roller for a taper lock bushing. Originally this was going to get a different form of mechanical shaft lock, but was changed to a taper lock after I had already machined the bore out to nearly the bolt circle of where the locking threads needed to be.
On a cnc machine I could have thread milled the half threads, but my shop is all manual.
My solution was to finish machine the bore of the roller out to the minor diameter of the taper for the bushing, and then I machined a plug that had a couple tenths of clearance so it was a nice snug but still hand fit in the bore. I was able to spot face, drill, and tap very easily and end up with nicely half threaded holes with no drama. Then I setup back in the lathe and machined the taper to size for the bushing.

Ripped this 1/8 304 plate with a circular saw I have, not sure if it's the same with any circular saw but it makes short work for sure, no sparks no, no smoke.
Thought it was smart to lay out with my chalk line then spray glue, to keep the line. It work till I had to clean it, oh well it's going straight into the fire box tomorrow anyway 🤪.

Playing with aluminum is the black soot loss of coverage or diping tungsten

I finaly decided to try some intercooler pipe. I got some cuts layed out and geting ready to tack it up.the last try looked like burnt or sunken in a few dabs was at 90 amp 3/32 and the 100hz and 45 % I am new at this so my macine starts at 25% and I believe to 80 were should the sweet spot be this China box instructions are impossible like my message

My company dispatched my apprentice and I to an oil processing plant on the west cost for a crack repair on an oil heater treater. When we arrived in house staff was pulling this E-tube out and washing it for us. During the first inspection inspections a small crack on the exterior side was noticed on the toe of existing weld. After pulling washing and reinspecting a 21” crack was discovered on the back side.
I had E-tube propped up in the best possible position for ease of access on all sides, CARBON ARCED out the crack on backside . (1/2) deep and a total of 25 “ two inches past the the crack and welded her up with 7018 1/8 .
Next day came back gouged out the front all the way down to sound metal and welded it up on the 3rd day.
Front cracks was just as long as the front crack but dug in a lot deeper.
Base metal 515 grade 70 / 1-1/4 thick.
CAC made short work of joint prep. Joint used was referenced from AWS D1.1 (B-U8) CJP

Fabbed up some removable flat tops for my pipe stands so I can clamp to them when fixturing stuff, etc. and I can put them back to pipe stands pretty easily. DZ

So I finally broke out the check book and got me a new wire feeder that has a large spool capacity, went to the local home depot and pick up a scrap pice of 1"×1/16 tube and started playing with some low settings.
( linked up with linclon's cross linc really well)
Rather than spend 30 bucks for a bunch of tee joints a decided to make bait hook . It's not finished but my point is the profax vs1 was half the price of an ln 25 and came with a connector lug plus 3' of leed. So far happy with it. Can't wait to try dual shield, Flux and spray arc mood,
Welderskills thanks for the mig workbook and all the recent spray arc videos. 😉

Still playing with this pluse tig it's pretty cool but, I could see how using it all the time will be a handy cap.