Jeff Loffert

Posted

Jan 17 at 04:17 PM

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Edit. I thought that I'd posted this in the questions but ended up in General. So I thought I'd tag Matt Hayden in case he doesn't see it here. 

Not real crazy about what I saw when cut and etched some sample 2F welds with the dual shield at 25V/250 IPM 35 CFH C25. They look OK on the surface, but about zero root fusion, and pretty shallow penetration. The etch wasn't great and didn't photo well. The 1/4" material was spotless clean and square; no rounded over sheared rolled edges. It was belt sanded square. Maybe I was traveling a little too fast? The throat is definitely under 1/4". Thoughts anyone?

Photo 1 cross section is pull beads top left/bottom right, and pull top right/bottom left. Photo 2 is pull, and Photo 3 is push.

Edit to add: Not sure what the hell is going on. Ran two more beads. Photo 4 is 25/250 and photo 5 is the Auto Set suggested 22.9/265. Slower travel speed to build up a bigger bead, which it did, but as you can see in the last photo, the root fusion in both is terrible. Squashed it in the 40T press and it held up OK, but I would hope so, welded on both sides.

Jan 17 at 12:16 AM

Thanks Shaun. I too prefer to push for the same reason you cited. Also using it on the same machine, a MM255. Will have to run some more beads on coupons, and do a cut and etch to see how the nuggets compare.

Reply

Posted

Jan 15 at 10:21 PM

Question for you guys that run a lot of dual shield. Do you think that "slag you drag" is a hard rule? I was padding beads of .045" Lincoln 71M Outershield( C25 gas ) at on plate today set to 25V/250 IPM. Dragged the beads left to right, and pushed the beads right to left. Darned if I could tell the difference. Just used a very slight ( 5-10 deg ) tilt either to or away from the direction of travel, with the gun pointed straight in. I haven't tried a cut & etch yet to see if there's any difference inside, but on the surface it runs great either way. Love the spatter free welds. I must admit I was wearing Crocs and never so much as felt a spark in an hours welding! I know, I know, it's not proper footwear. My shop, my feet, my rules! :)

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Jan 09 at 05:20 PM

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They liked the two test mules, and gave me five brand new ones to get the same treatment. It pained me to burn off the spotless powder coating, but with so many cracks and crevices to hide in, there's just no other way to get all of it. Used ER70S-6 this time, and a #8 Furick clear cup.

Jan 07 at 11:48 AM

Thanks. As much as I like welding with 309/312 filler, I'll probably switch to plain old ER70S-6 for the good parts. I have concerns about the gap in the inside butt weld allowing the back side of the weld to sugar.

Reply

Jan 06 at 11:23 PM

Wall thickness was .125". Used 120A on the fillets, and will bump it up to 125A for the next one, so the travel speed can increase. The inside butt welds I backed off to 110A, as there was a small gap, and nowhere for the heat to go, and wanted to keyhole pretty quick. Thanks. Also, used a sharp 1/8" Thoriated tungsten, Jazzy 10 cup/gas lens, and 25 CFH.

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Posted

Jan 06 at 07:15 PM

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My neighbor brought me a couple of receiver hitches that came off the fleet of snow machines that are used to groom the Iditarod trail before the sled dog race is run each spring. These machines take a pretty good beating, and the hitches have a couple of common failure points. He wanted me to see if I could add a few additional beads to beef them up. After burning off the powder coating and bead blasting, they were good and clean. Added a fillet around the three un-welded faces of the tubing, starting and ending on the ends of the lone factory weld. Then butt welded the inside end of the tube to the flange. He was very happy, and will be bringing in six brand new ones to receive the same mod, before they install them on the fleet. I chose ER312 filler, as I wasn't sure if it would be 100% clean, and it's supposed to leave a ductile, crack resistant weld. Plus, I just like the way it welds! Turns out the weed burner/bead blast got it plenty clean, so I'm sure plain old ER70S-2 or -6 should be fine for next ones.

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Matt Hayden Thanks Matt, looking forward to giving it a try! I'm down to the last 500 psi or so of 75/25, and will swap it for 90/10 if I can. For some reason, the local suppliers all seem to insist on renting 90/10, but I'm working on simply getting a refill/exchange just once, so I can try the spray. I'll post up something when I get it going. Will polish off the bottle of C25 while burning up some more .045" dual shield, using your excellent setting of 25/250.👍

Jan 06 at 11:52 AM

That did not look like a fun day for doing that job! Glad you got the bed on and back inside. The grease zerks and oiling the spots where salt collects is a great idea.

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Jan 03 at 12:27 AM

Good series Matt, thanks! Now that I have a machine that will do pulse MIG ( Millermatic 255 ), I'm trying to decide between dual shield and pulse for a "hot" process to supplement the normal short circuit function. When my bottle of 75/25 runs dry, I'll get a bottle of 90/10 and see what pulse is all about. The pulse spray has a lot of appeal to me, as the Millermatic 255 also has short circuit MIG programs for 90/10 gas in addition to the pulse programs for 90/10. Being able to bounce back and forth without having to switch wire or gas, would be very nice.