Jeff Loffert

Brad Goodman Good point on the machine settings for tungsten size/proper arc starts.

Crap, I really wanted to log in to this one, but got sidetracked with helping prep for turkey day, and forgot about it. Really good discussion you guys had. The one question I was going to ask, is opinions on tungsten size. Basically, how do you guys feel about using a 1/8" for everything, and adjust the grind to fit the amperage & material ( short/steep grind for high current/thick material to a long taper for low current/thin material ) versus swapping through the various sizes ( say 1/16" to 1/8" ) to suit the amperage & material thickness?

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25 Nov 23:18

Finished setting up the MM255, now that the spool gun finally arrived. While waiting for it, I added a cable trough off the side of the platform to keep the spool gun cables secure and out of the way. Also removed the entire storage shelf, and took it out to my buddies powder coat shop, and they shot it in satin black to match the black factory parts on the cart. Real happy with it. Aluminum on the left side, and steel on the right.

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20 Nov 19:22

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Made a torch hand rest for the weld table. Started on a weld positioner kit, and figured the adjustable rest would be nice for the positioner, and using on the table in general. The positioner was meant to be driven by a drill motor, but not wild about that. So working on adapting a motor drive to it. Version one was a failure, not enough low speed torque. Searching for an alternative now.

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Good info in this series Aren, thanks. I've got a Spoolmatic 30A on the way. The spool gun made the most sense for me, as I only have one MIG machine ( Millermatic 255 ) and it will allow me to leave the spool gun hooked up and independent of my steel MIG gun. I didn't want to have to dick around changing back and forth between a push pull, and the steel gun. For general repair and fab work, I think it should work great. Look forward to using it. It's coming USPS Ground Advantage, so no telling when that will be. That's life living at the end of the supply chain!

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16 Nov 19:50

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Brad Goodman Got er done. You're right, plenty stable as is, with just the weight of the 1/4". No magnets needed. Fun project that provided much needed practice, and a useful tool organizer. The stock I had was kinda scratched up and had sheared edges, so I scuffed it up with a DA sander, and put a good chamfer on the edges when prepping the parts.

Aren Jenkins Good to know, I'll have to give it a try on a bike! +1 on fitup. Even with filler, the slightest gap can cause a keyhole, and go downhill really fast.

Morning Aren. I have, and it works great and looks awesome. I'm just worried about its long term durability on stuff like a motorcycle exhaust. With the constant heat cycles, vibration, cold water hitting a screaming hot header, etc..... I just feel better having the extra reinforcement of filler material. Just started trying .040" filler, and I like the smaller beads. I need to slow down and/or use a little more heat so the beads flatten out a little more. Never liked the looks of 1/16" as the welds looked huge on thin exhaust, but that was all that's available locally. Finally ordered some .040".

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16 Nov 00:13

Video no workee!

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14 Nov 20:50

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Ran a practice butt joint on some 304SS exhaust tube( 2.25" OD/.065" wall ), to get in some practice time with my new HTP Invertig 251. Could be worse, but a LOT of room for improvement. Maintaining a consistent bead profile with .040" filler is a sonofabitch! Got decent melt through at 50A, but will bump it up a couple of amps next time. The 5 cfh back purge was sufficient to prevent sugaring. Used a sharp 1/16" C-K LaYZr tungsten, and Fupa 12 cup, and 35 cfh.

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