Wall thickness was .125". Used 120A on the fillets, and will bump it up to 125A for the next one, so the travel speed can increase. The inside butt welds I backed off to 110A, as there was a small gap, and nowhere for the heat to go, and wanted to keyhole pretty quick. Thanks. Also, used a sharp 1/8" Thoriated tungsten, Jazzy 10 cup/gas lens, and 25 CFH.

Matt Hayden Thanks Matt, looking forward to giving it a try! I'm down to the last 500 psi or so of 75/25, and will swap it for 90/10 if I can. For some reason, the local suppliers all seem to insist on renting 90/10, but I'm working on simply getting a refill/exchange just once, so I can try the spray. I'll post up something when I get it going. Will polish off the bottle of C25 while burning up some more .045" dual shield, using your excellent setting of 25/250.👍

That did not look like a fun day for doing that job! Glad you got the bed on and back inside. The grease zerks and oiling the spots where salt collects is a great idea.

Good series Matt, thanks! Now that I have a machine that will do pulse MIG ( Millermatic 255 ), I'm trying to decide between dual shield and pulse for a "hot" process to supplement the normal short circuit function. When my bottle of 75/25 runs dry, I'll get a bottle of 90/10 and see what pulse is all about. The pulse spray has a lot of appeal to me, as the Millermatic 255 also has short circuit MIG programs for 90/10 gas in addition to the pulse programs for 90/10. Being able to bounce back and forth without having to switch wire or gas, would be very nice.

The swag bag of Weldmonger prizes arrived today, thanks!

In addition to the previously mentioned MIG uphill, I'd like to get more familiar with, and better at, Dual Shield Flux Core. 

Same here, I suck at uphill.

Paul Charron YW. Whatever route you go, I'd first trace out a nice accurate template of the part. Then, if the weld option goes sideways, you'll have a plan B.

While it would be interesting to try and do a weld repair( after all, we are welders! ); unless there's a specific reason for it to be made of a casting, I'd make a new one out of plate. It's a simple looking part, and could be reproduced pretty quickly with just a drill press, bandsaw, and files. Would be less likely to break as well, as that piece that snapped off looks like a problem waiting to happen for a cast part.

Good stuff. Welcome Shaun!