Matt Hayden That miter saw/folding stand is a nice combo for my small shop space. Out of the way when not in use, and at a comfortable work height, when you set it up. Super fast repeatable angle settings, and a great clamping system. 

Been really happy with the Evolution saws I've owned. Had the one like Matt demo'd, and recently sold it to a friend and upgraded to their new mitering chop saw( on a mobile stand ). It's been awesome. I've found their blades to last a good long time, if you do as Matt suggested. Use the right blade for the right material, and ease into the cut. I'd also add, allow the blade to spool up to full speed before starting the cut.

No worries Matt, I posted the question in the wrong place, and then added the tag so you'd see it after the fact. Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the info and glad to hear I wasn't seeing something unusual. I'll experiment with a little higher voltage and kick up the wire speed on some more 2F's and see what it looks like. Also need to cut and etch some vertical and overhead samples I did at 25/250 and see how they compare to the 2F samples. Thanks again!

Thanks Shaun. I too prefer to push for the same reason you cited. Also using it on the same machine, a MM255. Will have to run some more beads on coupons, and do a cut and etch to see how the nuggets compare.

They liked the two test mules, and gave me five brand new ones to get the same treatment. It pained me to burn off the spotless powder coating, but with so many cracks and crevices to hide in, there's just no other way to get all of it. Used ER70S-6 this time, and a #8 Furick clear cup.

Thanks. As much as I like welding with 309/312 filler, I'll probably switch to plain old ER70S-6 for the good parts. I have concerns about the gap in the inside butt weld allowing the back side of the weld to sugar.

Wall thickness was .125". Used 120A on the fillets, and will bump it up to 125A for the next one, so the travel speed can increase. The inside butt welds I backed off to 110A, as there was a small gap, and nowhere for the heat to go, and wanted to keyhole pretty quick. Thanks. Also, used a sharp 1/8" Thoriated tungsten, Jazzy 10 cup/gas lens, and 25 CFH.

Matt Hayden Thanks Matt, looking forward to giving it a try! I'm down to the last 500 psi or so of 75/25, and will swap it for 90/10 if I can. For some reason, the local suppliers all seem to insist on renting 90/10, but I'm working on simply getting a refill/exchange just once, so I can try the spray. I'll post up something when I get it going. Will polish off the bottle of C25 while burning up some more .045" dual shield, using your excellent setting of 25/250.👍

That did not look like a fun day for doing that job! Glad you got the bed on and back inside. The grease zerks and oiling the spots where salt collects is a great idea.

Good series Matt, thanks! Now that I have a machine that will do pulse MIG ( Millermatic 255 ), I'm trying to decide between dual shield and pulse for a "hot" process to supplement the normal short circuit function. When my bottle of 75/25 runs dry, I'll get a bottle of 90/10 and see what pulse is all about. The pulse spray has a lot of appeal to me, as the Millermatic 255 also has short circuit MIG programs for 90/10 gas in addition to the pulse programs for 90/10. Being able to bounce back and forth without having to switch wire or gas, would be very nice.