You need to make sure you have enough actual weld size at the beginning and end so that it has enough bulk to be strong enough for the cooling cycle to happen without the weld breaking. Often, it is just a matter of a few extra dabs of filler.

There is reeally no one single answer to this. It all depends. Something like 3x filler diameter is a target some shoot for, but it really depends on a number of things. Typically this will be specified in a wps because it can vary so much.

High frequency can zap you a bit too right before the arc is established.

Aaron Laughlin yes. Stainless loves good gas coverage. It is also not uncommon on cluster joints or manifold type joints to have hard to reach areas that weld nicely with the long stick outs you can get with those cups.

Aaron Laughlin its more a preference than an upgrade with aluminum. Some people like a gas lense on aluminum, some don’t. As far as gas coverage goes, it isn’t as needed on aluminum as it is on other metals, so gas coverage wise, a standard collet body is adequate on aluminum. I find it easier to get wider more wet in beads with a gas lense when I am trying to get to a certain bead width.

Jesse hoover not sure if your question got answered or not. Your bead width on DC will change with material thickness, arc length, amperage, tungsten grind, and torch angle. To me, there really isn’t one answer to ‘is it wide enough’. I feel like as far as that kind of practice goes (bead on plate), getting a feel for getting wet in toes WITH consistent movement, and control of the HAZ is a good indicator of progress amd if you are on the right track and more important than bead width. Once you get a feel for heat control, and consistent movement, you will be able to start tuning in stuff like bead width easier.

Aaron Laughlin with AC bead width will change quite a bit with frequency and cup setup. If I want fatter beads on aluminum, for example if I am doing a single second pass over a tube joint that I want to cover and consume the toes of the root, I might turn my freq down towards 60 and run a gas lense with a #8 cup.

The work flow and next videos will be about how I go about figuring out where my insert (and cuts) will be, measuring the hull and where and why to support it, how to prep for the cut, methods of cutting, making the templates, cutting the plate, fitting the inserts, preparing for the welds, welding out, and building the new transducer mount.

Definitely have to be on your toes.

It detects what is under the surface. Depth, topography, ext.