Depending on the the size and weight of the scenic structure your making, it may at some point require that. Realistically at that point you would be referring to engineering in a shop setting.

I haven’t done nor have I seen weld call-outs for multi pass fillet welds on any tubular structures I’ve built.

I did a decent amount of 1/2” aluminum when I was building scenic elements for Disneyland. At that shop we used miller 255 with push-pull guns, used .045 4043 and .045 4943 filler wire. We also preheated the aluminum prior to welding.  I only ran straight MIG during that project. 

I’ve run a fair amount of dual shield and I just about always push. I even took a 6g sch 80 and passed by pushing with both hands. I learned from a CWI and have also spoken to other CWI ‘s and I have gotten mixed opinions on it. I’m only speaking from my experience, but it’s easier for me to read the puddle when I push and see that the wire is hitting the joint and not pushing into the weld pool which can increase the likelihood of trapping slag. I used to run it using a Miller 255 with .045 ESAB wire and my settings where the same 25/250

absolutely bud, let me know if I can help ya with anything else. Great to hear your getting more work out of these too!  Paul Charron

I love that bud, not only are you practicing but you’re pushing yourself to learn more! I always tell my guys to practice on a project, whether it’s a simple and functional table or an art piece… you will learn so much more and faster practicing on something you want or interests you. Just like you said, looks great too bud! 

Hey Paul, so one thing to remember about cast parts is that they are much dirtier. I don’t have much experience with cast aluminum, though I have done my fair share of cast iron and cast steel. With iron or steel holes or voids can appear while welding due to impurities in the cast. Make sure your part is thoroughly cleaned and I would pre heat the part as well. I would bevel both sides of the part where it’s broke so theres still weld after grinding. Judging by the size of the part (looks like 1/2” thick by 1/4” where it broke) I would set the amps for 1/4”( set it to the thickness of the material) and my travel speed would be normal. The CK laser green tungsten should work fine for this, if the part is 1/4” thick then I would use 1/8” tungsten instead of a 3/32”. 

No worries bud, figured it’d be easier in video form. Let me know how it goes for ya

Thanks Mike I’m glad you liked it, hopefully it’ll come in handy for ya.

Thanks Jeff I’m happy to share what knowledge I have with ya!

Thanks Martin I appreciate that bud. It’s nice knowing the old school way, it may come in handy down the road.