Gavin Bickford

Posted

Jul 02 at 12:17 AM

Does anyone have any tricks for purging the back side of a full penetration fillet weld?

I'm going to be welding some 330 stainless and from the research I've done, the fillets should be full penetration and welded on both sides if possible to resist cracking during heat cycling. 

I am considering using aluminum foil and tape to seal off the backside and purge it (the size of the project makes it less ideal to purge the whole thing) but if anyone has a better idea I'm all ears.

Jun 27 at 01:06 AM

Hi Roy, I've never worked with nickel alloys before but I've welded plenty of dirty stainless which I hear they behave similar to.

At work they are talking about designing a Hastelloy X heat shield for the inside of a reactor. It will reach 2,000f and will have corrosive gases inside and be heat cycled repeatedly with a fast cool down. The design is a rectangular chute welded to the bottom of a flange. Inside the chute is where the combustion happens. 

We were thinking about breaking two pieces and welding them together to form the chute. I suggested we design the welded joints to be overlapping if possible and be welded on both sides of the lap joint. That's what I've done in the past on stainless tanks to handle heat cycling and remove stress from the joint.

I've read Inconel 625 should work for a filler but do you have any suggestions for filler, alloys to use, or design insight? Or just advice for welding nickel alloys?

Thanks 

Posted

Jun 25 at 11:22 PM

Does anyone have experience breaking and or welding Inconel HX aka Hastelloy X? 

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