Hi Brad, I saw that you cleaned up the inside of the tube, the cut face and the bevel around the outside. Did you notice that anodizing on the outside, at the start of the bevel edge became included in the weld.

I suppose the question becomes, do you grind off more anodizing and have it cleaner or, do you leave some anodizing and not see the grind marks?

Hi Kris, Welding is a great hobby!!! This is a great place to get started!!!

Hi Brad, Excellent video. I actually have no questions. You've explained to process perfectly.

Turning to your telehandler. I notice that you have pins through to top of the forks, and seemingly elongated slots for those pins to sit in. Are the forks free to float up a couple of inches and how does that go when using it?

I'm currently restoring a 50 year old Hyster P50A which is a rough terrain forklift. I has exactly the same pin/fork arrangement which is very unusual in a forklift. My father has worked his whole life with forklifts and never seen this before??

Hi Sam, well done. I've been brazing some damaged hydraulic lines recently too. I found this from the past to be interest: Silicon Bronze TIG Brazing (youtube.com)

Hi Sam, I didn't quite catch how you machine the faces at the entrance to the boring?

Part 7) They all cleaned up quite nicely. I could have used a little more heat in some areas. The priority however was not to blow through the tube. I had nothing to practice with so, risk assessment wise, it's a bit hard to push the heat!

According to a hydraulic fellow I know, some of this free machining soft steel doesn't take well to welding either. Brazing yes, welding no. It's possibly a zinc thing.

I hadn't realized that the boiling point of zinc is below the melting point of steel. It's vaporizing while we're trying to weld it.

Part 6) There were about 6 of these longer wear patterns.

Part 5) Used a Makita belt sander (3/8" 9mm) wide. Does a nice job of finishing.

Stupidly, I allowed the JIC connection ferrule to migrate down the tube, past the braze. I had it sand in down sufficiently for that to return. 🥵

Part 4) Unfortunately, I hadn't seen Jody's video but I largely did the same things as he described. I normally don't like using pulse. I find it quite distracting, but, on this thin wall, particularly near the edges, I was using 60A at 30%, 20A background and 30 pulses per second.

While I much prefer using the standard DC arc, using a fast pulse (>30) seems to avoid nipping into the surface so easily. Good for SiBro. I find >30pps also not so distracting as Jody has suggested. Because this material was tapering down to a sharp edge, I couldn't run any risk of blowing through. The tube is 9.5mm (3/8") diameter. Can't readily measure the wall thickness, but it is thin before the wear.

One advantage I find to using pulse is that you can generally hear how consistent your arc length is.

Part 3) I carefully formed the burst area back to it's original shape. Light tapping with a lightweight hammer.