Kyle Boyd

Melbourne, Australia

Apr 13 at 02:31 AM

Thanks for your replies, this is a very high level of Motorsport (Australian V8 Supercars) and obviously all work needs to be signed off. (I think?)

Iā€™m definitely no expert, but I wouldā€™ve assumed they would know what they are doing? Or is this just perception?

Have you guys seen these sorts of things from people who should know better in the industry?

I wouldā€™ve thought failure is not an option at this level?

Again thanks for your replies, itā€™s good for my learning!

Apr 11 at 09:45 AM

I agree, I was surprised to hear that they are required to mig certain joins on the chassis as per the rules.

Obviously whoever built this knows what they are doing, Iā€™m just interested to know why the tack method was used as opposed to running a bead like you would on a normal roll cage.

Iā€™m sure at this level it wouldā€™ve been tested and found this is the best way of doing it..

But Iā€™m a bit of a nerd and always need to know the details šŸ˜‚

Apr 10 at 07:50 AM

Brad Goodman Thanks Brad! Will try it out

Apr 10 at 07:42 AM

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Reply

Posted

Apr 10 at 07:42 AM

Hi all,
Tonight I was given the opportunity to have a tour of a race teams facility.
This is a photo of one of the chassis, they are a controlled component by the racing series and are made from chromoly
I have a question about the ā€œtackā€ method of mig welding some of the tubes.
When I asked the guide, I was told that they would like to tig everything, but these certain joins are required to be migged, as per the design rules/specifications.
Just wondering if anyone could give any insight as to why these certain joins would need to be migged? As opposed to tig?
And also is the stack of tacks method used due to it being chromoly and needing to control the heat input? Is this a viable technique?
I thought the series of tacks would maybe cause potential failure points, especially with the craters on each?
I will add another zoomed out photo in the comments
Thank you šŸ˜

Apr 02 at 04:11 PM

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Thanks for your reply Brad, Definitely makes sense!

In this example here, what level of penetration would you consider this?

To my untrained eye, I would be concerned about the line down the middle, especially on aluminium as a possible place for cracks to form.

For example on a fuel tank, would you want to see no ā€œlineā€ and almost a replica of the outside bead on the inside?

I understand thereā€™s more factors at play due to my skill level, just more wondering what I should be shooting for in practice to get my head around it.

The fit up on these parts was good, but granted I probably didnā€™t clean them perfectly due to just being quick practice - except the metal was brand new (just removed the peel coat)

Thanks again šŸ˜

Posted

Apr 02 at 04:57 AM

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Hi everyone,
My name is Kyle, Iā€™m from Melbourne, Australia.

Iā€™ve recently learning aluminium tig, Iā€™m about a week in and I canā€™t get enough!
Loving all the content on this site!

I have a question on weld penetration for aluminium.
Iā€™m just wondering if there is different ā€œidealā€ penetration welds for different applications?
-Such as something you want to be as strong as possible, obviously requires full penetration.
-where as something maybe not so structural, example: Bradā€™s dog feeder boxes maybe you would want less penetration to have a clean finish on the inside?

Iā€™m not sure if Iā€™m on the right track here, maybe once you are good enough, a full penetration weld is just the norm and second nature.

If this is the case, it would be cool to see different examples of levels of penetration and the best way to go about achieving that particular finish.
(On all of the main metals, not just aluminium)

I have an example of some of my practice - Iā€™m still learning to feed rod, thatā€™s definitely my limiting factor. Sometimes I canā€™t keep up with the weld and I panic then it doesnā€™t go so great.
I am padding beads to get it up to speed.

Iā€™m just wondering also if this penetration is what you would expect on an outside corner weld?
2mm Aluminium sheet - outside corner
~120 amps (140 amps on machine, foot pedal)
120hz, 30% cleaning, 17 torch, gas lens + 6 cup, 15cfh, 2% lanth 2.4mm tungsten
1.6mm filler rod - I found that 2.4mm filler was making my bead too high and cold looking.

Again, loving all the content on here! And really appreciate all instructors taking the time to teach us their tricks!
Cheers